Photo World

2009-12-13T05:10:00.000-08:00

Sony is providing Memory Stick PRO™ media users with an expanded range of enhanced media that not only offers higher capacities and are high-speed read and write capable, but are also compatible with a vast array of current Memory Stick PRO devices.
The updated Memory Stick PRO (High Speed) media features capacities of up to 2GB in the standard-size media and 1GB in the Memory Stick PRO Duo™ media size and are designed to support both read and write speeds of up to 80Mbps (10MB/s.). Among the fastest in the flash media industry, this higher speed will be especially beneficial for transferring data-intensive images, such as high-resolution digital photos, to and from PCs and other devices that may incorporate a high-speed parallel data transfer interface in the future.
By year's end at least one-third of American households will be able to take digital photos As the trend for higher-megapixel cameras continues to increase, Sony and other manufacturers who offer large capacity, high-speed memory cards will be at the forefront of the flash memory market."
The high-performance media also offers greater reliability in extreme temperatures with an improved operating temperature range of -13°F to 185°F. Whether your Memory Stick PRO media is in your backpack on the ski slopes or in the trunk of your car on a hot summer day, you can trust your media will perform as expected. Sony will offer this expanded reliability on all Memory Stick PRO media beginning this fall.
Easily recognizable by its striking new red color and "High Speed" marking, Memory Stick PRO (High Speed) media will be available later this year as follows:

What is depth of field and how to control depth of field

2009-12-11T07:16:00.000-08:00

picture a picture b

The depth of field is the back and forth area of the subject in focus depending on the subject and your choice. you can control the depth of field e.g In land scape photography every thing should be in sharp focus so must set your camera for that setting.In potrait photography you can use be creative by using the different setting of depth of field .

There are 3 ways to control the depth of field

1. aperture has 2 function one is to control the amount of light entering and hitting the ccd of digital camare thereby influence the exposure of picture taken and second to control the depth of field the greater depth of field the less back and forth area of subject in focus and small aperture means more area in focus potrait we can use large depth of field e.g 4or 2.8 aperture to blur the background making the subject to stand out from background distractions

2 Distance of the subject from the lens The more the distance between the lens and subject the more depth of field and the more things will be in focus If you take a picture of a subject from let say 4 meter the background and foreground will be more in focus then if you take a picture from 2metre in which background and foreground will be less sharp.

3 choice of the lens Wide angle lenses will give you more depth of field that is why in land scape photography wide lenses are use where you want everything in sharp focus you take potrait with telephoto lens so background blur and the subject stands out and also to minimize the distracting background ofcourse these are the general guidline and rules for best results for the type of photography you want the do but you can break the rule and use wide angel in portraits and telphoto in landscape to be creative and come up with different and good picture Experiment is the key and to be creative is the kind of fun and you cancome with rather striking picture and could win some contest or it could be appraised and be in some photography magizine. 28 to105 or more are good choice of lens as it gives you good coverage Even in compact cameras wide to telephoto lens is available and should prefer it.

a]above picture of flower is good example of large depth of field or use of telephoto lens or small distance between subject and lens

b]picture of lanscsape is e.g small depth of field i.e 16,22

and use of wide angle lens so every thing in sharp focus

Best pocket camera or best compact camera

2009-12-07T10:55:00.000-08:00

There are many great camera in the market to choose from is it DSLR OR COMPACT CAMERA .The compact camera is easy to carry and easy to use . you can take great picture from compact camera some good enough to win a contest I always carry a compact camera in my pocket to catch whatever happens around me and not to miss some unexpected good shots you never know I use compact for scenic Travel and landscape photos.
Here are recommended camera for users

CANON S90 is one of the best camera ever made because it has a direct control which lets you adjust it for perfect photo every time these menus is much easier to use then dials on others camera menus .The S90 fits perfectly in the pocket and have a very good image quality for a compact it is highly recommended get one while it is available because compact camera come and go very fast. The low light performance is incredible for such a camera. It can take indoor and night pics without using flash. ISO 80 and ISO 100 quality are comparable to any entry level DSLR.

12 GREAT TIPS FOR LANDSCAPE PHOTOS

2009-12-04T00:58:00.000-08:00

.1 High points give you a over all view of the scene and if you have a camera that gives you control (e.g. an SLR) over the exposure settings, a small aperture of f/11 or f/16 will let you keep everything in focus. And there is a greater depth of field which is very important in scenic photography.

2. Early morning and late evening are the best times for shooting landscapes and out doer photography . This is because the low angle of the Sun picks out shadows and reveals textures. It gives the impression of 3-D look. cloudy days are not suited for land scape photography and it gives dull look to your pictures

3 look for the locations best landscapes are not found at the side of the road. So be prepared to go for a walk or talk to local native in an effort to seek out the most interesting locations.

4. Wide angle lenses are mostly used used for landscapes because they will give you to include more in the frame and open up perspective. A wide-angle zoom lens gives you more latitude in framing the scene and cropping out distracting features. You can use horizantial as well as vertical framing which make some interesting and different outlook of scene try both

5 place something in the foreground . Whenever possible, place something of interest in the foreground of the shot to create a sense of depth or you can make somebody stand in the foreground to create a sense of depth

6. use a tripod. use a tripod to get a sharpest picture when shooting landscapes which is very vital. use cable release to press the shutter instead of your finger to avoid any slight shake of camare - this means you'll take fewer but better pictures. Get a light model to cut down on weight if you do a lot of walking to your locations.

7.crop Look out for scenes that will let you crop the top and bottom of the image to snape a more dramatic "letterbox" panoramic composition.

8. Use a polarizing filterThis is most vital for outdoor photography.It darken the sky and saturate the colors in the landscape .It remove any haze from the atmosphere

9. Use graduated grey or neutral density filters to darken the sky and reduce the contrast between the landscape and the sky. Polarizing filters aren't much use for bright cloudy skies but graduated filters are. Frequently, the sky looks burned out in photos because the films or digital sensors don't have the range to record the brightness differences between it and darker foreground scenery. (Films and sensors still aren't as good as the human eye!)

10. Use color correction filters to change the color of light on a landscape. These filters can either warm up the landscape or cool it down, depending on the filter color used. Warm filter gives amber colour to the scene there are many different type of colour filters
experiment with different filters.

11. Try soft focus filter to add an ethereal quality to the scene. These filters blur the bright areas of a scene into the shadows to give the image a glow giving it a romantic look.

12. Use the Hyperfocal Distance the method is to focus 1/3 into the scene with small aparture ,say 16,22 and then recompose the scene . Hyperfocal focusing allows you to get everything sharp, from things close up to the camera to those far away. It's more reliable than just setting the focus at infinity. You will need a camera that allows manual focusing though.

13.USERAW If you use a digital camera, and your camera is capable of it, shoot RAW images rather than JPGs. The RAWs will take up more room on your memory card but there's no in-camera processing done on the image (as there is for JPGs). RAW images will give you greater latitude for image manipulation (using Adobe PhotoShop, PhotoShop Elements, Paint Shop Pro or some other image manipulation package).

tips on child photogrphy

2009-11-29T00:09:00.000-08:00

child photography is one of the most rewarding pastime and most satisfiying thing to do in photography be it your own child or another child.you can win photography contest or you can frame your child photo as a sweet memory.but can also be frustating thing to photograph a child in right mood and make a natural potrait of a child.every body want good potrait of thier child their is a great demand and pros get a good price for it.
point to consider in child photography.
preparetionIf you are well prepared from the outset, the job should be all that more enjoyable for all concerned and that makes for better pictures. If possible visit the family before the session know the child name and and get famaliar with the child so he can be relexed before the photo session. also survey the surroundings where you planned to take pictures for best possible results.
smile the moment you meet the child/children smile and greet them happly and take interest in them and their toys and activities keep the cheerful face believe me this important advice will save you a lot of frustration .
show your equipment let the child know you and your camera children are very inquisitive and want touch and feel and get to know you camera.Leave the camera on the floor or table, they will soon ignore it and play. If the children are old enough, it may be an idea for the parents to explain that they will be having their photographs taken, so they can get used to the idea
surroundings with children their is no better place then their own house surroundings it the most suitable place to photograph children/child and get best results you can use their garden and out door surroundings for pictures
The Natural Approach when they are busy with their toys or playing in their natural surroundings .you can take their pictures unaware of you or you can take their snap looking at you in most natural way.that is how parents will remember their childrens in years to come. Good child photography will spark off the most romantic nostalgia for years.
Clothes and Props use variety of clothes and props to spice your photographs change clothes of bright colours to enhance their skin use diffuser for dreamy style ,use their toys and other stuff for best results.You can build your own set of props too, like funny hats funky shades or Hollywood-style wraps/scarves...or even a basket
Lighting the best lighting will always be natural. If you can get the child to stand by a bright window or in the shade under a tree, you have all the power of the sun at your fingertips. Try, if possible NOT to photograph the child or children in DIRECT sunlight. This plays havoc with the light meter in your camera, and can cause unsightly shadows. There are times however when you can break this rule quite effectively, but you need a bit of training on your camera settings.
focus on eyes the best picture can be ruined and all your work will be wasted if it is not sharp
the best is to focus on the eyes of the subject and locking it by half depressing the shutter buttion and then recomposing the subject.

camera Review Canon EOS 7D

2009-11-29T00:03:00.000-08:00

By finally providing a truly rugged, pro-oriented APS-C format DSLR, the way people should think about sensor size. Pros now can choose what size sensor best fits their assignment, and enthusiasts have a full range of options based on their shooting style. This solid piece of engineering will amaze you with its 18MP CMOS sensor resolution, its fast 8-fps burst rate, and its tough weathersealed body. It also marks a refinement of Canon’s metering and autofocus systems, which now work together to track subjects by shape and color. $1,700, street, body

Review of Nikon Coolpix S1000PJ

2009-11-22T03:43:00.000-08:00

Coolest Feature: Camera turns into a mini-projector.
Bigger LCDs and Wi-Fi have made sharing digital photos easier, but you still have to pass the camera around to give everyone a look. Nikon’s new 12.1-megapixel Coolpix solves the problem with first-of-its-kind technology. Turn on its tiny, built-in projector and everyone in the room can view VGA quality photos or videos (with sound) at sizes up to 40 inches across, on surfaces up to six feet away. The coolest new Coolpix is lots of camera too, with a 5X zoom that starts out at a wide-angle 28mm (35mm equivalent) and vibration reduction bolstered by a motion-detection system that ups ISO and shutter speed automatically. (Sensitivity goes as high as ISO 6400.) Still not sure you’ll get it sharp? The Best Shot Selector shoots a burst of up to 10 frames and saves the sharpest one.Buy It: $430

How to photograph a Group

2009-11-13T14:04:00.000-08:00

Group photography needs a little bit of planning and attention to small details to make it lok right Be it family group or your are making group at wedding where you dont have much time
First you should make rows according to the hieght tallest in the last row and children in the first row also make some tall chidren to knell down or make them to sit in the first row to adjust with the other children hieght check people tie, scarfs head postioning, hand postions as some cross thier hand in front of them which dont look nice check all this in a quick glance .
before pressing a shutter you should draw thier attention toward a camera by saying e.g [ look at the camera andDONT BLINK YOUR EYES FOR A SECOND ] with little bit louder voice
and also take atleast 3 photo in a row.so at least 1 photo comes out right.

Basics Things You Need to Know About Shutter Speed

2009-11-12T01:08:00.000-08:00

If you’re new to photography, you may be struggling with some of the terms used in the industry.
Well, one of the most fundamental principles in photography is that of shutter speed. Learning to control the shutter speed is critical to taking good pictures.
This article will highlight 5 important facts about shutter speed, which you must understand to take good photographs in a wide range of conditions.
1. What is shutter speed?
Let’s begin with a basic definition of shutter speed. Now, the shutter in a digital camera is a thin sheet covering the CCD (think of the CCD as ‘film’). When this shutter opens, it exposes light from the exterior onto the CCD, hence allow a picture to be taken. The length of time that the shutter remains open is termed the shutter speed.
A key concept here – the longer the shutter remains open (i.e. the lower the shutter speed), the greater the amount of light that is allowed into the camera. And vice versa, the faster the shutter closes (i.e. the higher the shutter speed), the smaller the amount of light that is allowed into the camera.
2. How is shutter speed expressed?
If you look at modern digital cameras, shutter speeds are usually expressed as 1/8th of a second. The range of shutter speeds can be expressed as: 1, 1/2, 1/4, 1/8, 1/15, 1/30, 1/60, 1/125, 1/250, with each one being a fraction of a second. Each speed in this series is roughly half that of the one on the left.
3. Choosing the Correct Shutter Speed
Here’s the important question. How do you select the correct shutter speed when taking photos? Well, if you have a point-and-shoot camera, then it may not matter too much. Simply set the camera to automatic mode and snap the picture. The camera’s in-built auto exposure settings will take care of the shutter speed settings for you.
If, however, you like to play with manual settings and have a more advanced camera, then the choice of shutter speed clearly matters. What you need to remember is this – shutter speeds are very closely linked to movement.
Use a slow shutter speed (say 1/60 or lower) if you want to introduce some blur in the picture to display speed in the subject. Remember, however, that a slow shutter speed will mean you need to hold the camera totally still for a longer period of time. If you can’t do this, your image will usually turn out bad. To work around the problem, use a tripod or steady your arms somewhere before taking the shot. As a general rule, if the shutter speed is 1/30 or slower, definately use tripod to steady the camera.

Use a fast shutter speed (say 1/125 or higher) if you need to capture a fast moving subject. Good examples include a passing car or a bird in flight. Now, one problem with fast shutter speeds is that you can totally miss the shot because the shutter opens and closes so fast. To workaround this, you can try one of two things. First, avoid the camera LCD - look through the viewfinder with one eye and use the other eye to spot the subject crossing the camera’s field of view. Second, you can try uses a lens that increases the field of view, allowing you more time to take the picture.
4. Make Use of the Light Meter
Another thing I find useful is to make use of the light meter in your camera. Most advance digital camera should have this feature. The light meter can tell you if there is too much or too little ambient light.
If it’s too bright, then you can set a fast shutter speed like 1/250 - the shutter will quickly open and close so that too much light doesn't get in. If it’s too dark, then do the reverse – use a slow shutter speed to give the camera time to absorb light into the camera.
5. Direction of Movement
OK, besides the speed of your subject, the direction of movement of your subject is also important. Look at the diagram below which I use to explain this concept.

For a given shutter speed, if your subject is running perpendicular to the camera, then you need a faster shutter speed to capture the shot. If your subject is running at an angle towards the camera, then a slower shutter speed would suffice. An example is a photo of your pet dog. A dog running towards you would require a slower shutter speed then a dog running across you.
Conclusion
I hope you now understand shutter speed a little better. When I started out in digital photography, I was simply snapping pictures without understanding the concept of shutter speed. Bad mistake! Take the time to understand the fundamentals of shutter speed and you’ll be surprised how much your photography skills will improve.

How to buy a digital camera 9 vital points

2009-11-01T00:46:00.000-07:00

1. Determine what you need

Some questions to ask yourself before you go shopping

What do you need the camera for?
What type of photography will you be doing? (portraits, landscapes, macro, sports)
What conditions will you be largely photographing in? (indoors, outdoors, low light, bright light)
Will you largely stay in auto mode or do you want to learn the art of photography?
What experience level do you have with cameras?
What type of features are you looking for? (long zoom, image stabilization, large LCD display etc)
How important is size and portability to you? Don’t forget to ask for free or discounted bonuses including camera cases, memory cards, extra batteries, filters, free prints, cases etc. I even know of a couple of stores that offer camera lessons that you can ask to be included. Some stores will also consider giving you a trade in on older gear.

position to make a decision when you see what’s on offer. You’ll probably find the sales person asks you this question anyway – so to have thought about it before hand will help them help you get the right digital

Megapixels are NOT everything

These days, with most new cameras coming out with at least 5 megapixels, it isn’t so crucial. In fact at the upper end of the range it can actually be a disadvantage to have images that are so large that they take up enormous amounts of space on memory cards and computers.
One of the main questions to ask when it comes to megapixels is ‘Will you be printing shots’? If so – how large will you be going with them? If you’re only printing images at a normal size then anything over 4 or so megapixels will be fine. If you’re going to start blowing your images up you might want to pay the extra money for something at the upper end of what’s on offer today.Read more:

Keep in mind the ‘extras’

Keep in mind as you look at cameras that the price quoted may not be the final outlay that you need to make as there are a variety of other extras that you might want (or need) to fork out for including:
Camera Case
Memory Cards
Spare Batteries/Recharger
Lenses (if you are getting a DSLR)
Filters (and other lens attachments)
Tripods/Monopods
External Flashes
Reflectors

Optical Zooms are King

When you’re looking at different models of digital cameras you’ll often hear their zooms talked about in two ways. Firstly there’s the ‘optical zoom’ and then there’s the ‘digital zoom’.
you should only take into consideration the ‘optical zoom’ when making a decision about which camera to buy. Digital zooms simply enlarge the pixels in your shot which does make your subject look bigger, but it also makes it look more pixelated and your picture ‘noisier’ (like when you go up close to your TV).
If you’re looking for a zoom lens make sure it’s an optical zoom (most modern cameras have them of at least 3x in length – ie they’ll make your subject three times as big – with an increasing array of ’super zooms’ coming onto the market at up to 12x Optical Zoom

Read reviews

Before buying a digital camera take the time to do a little researchRead some reviews in digital camera magazines or online to help you narrow down the field

Hands On Experience

Once you’ve narrowed down your search to a handful of cameras head into your local digital camera shop and ask to see and play with them. There’s nothing like having the camera in your hands to work out whether it suits your needs

. Negotiate

After you’ve selected the right digital camera for you it’s time to find the best price Don’t forget to ask for free or discounted bonuses including camera cases, memory cards, extra batteries, filters, free prints, cases etc. I even know of a couple of stores that offer camera lessons that you can ask to be included. Some stores will also consider giving you a trade in on older gear

Ordinary photographer are making Big moneyshooting for small stock agencies

2009-10-13T08:49:00.000-07:00

You can make good money by selling you photos to smallstock agencies.Many such shooters have onle a basic camara and a hobbyist,s love for photography.we have unbelievable number of people applying to be photographers says vice president of marking for istockphoto.com and there are thousand of newbies every month.Roylity fre site generelly make it easy for amateurs to join although they have quality inspectors.most inspectors will offer hints and shortcuts for improving images and many take advantage of the site,s forums to share tips, ask for advice
Microstock payment vary shutterstock offers buyers 25 download per day(750 per month) for a monthly fee of$159 photographer earn25 percentper download .While pennies per shot doesn,t sound much roylity free sites count on the high volume that low prices encourage.Founder of of shutterstock estimates that the "sweet spot" for his shooter is $500 to $1000 per month though some make as much as $4000 per monthly some are paying for the extra car they wanted or for their mortgage payment and some actually quit their job and are doing it fulltime.It best to listen to advice from different site inspectors
Subjects matters. holidays brings out a slew of theme.Valintine and Christmas bring,s thier own theme seane locke who shoots primarily for istockphoto making do with what,s available to you and shooting subject you like most and shoot it well.

Essential Tips for digital photography

2009-10-08T05:51:00.000-07:00

Nowadays, digital photography is viewed the most common not only in the business industry but also for personal use. For all those who have transferred from film cameras, it is essential that you know the various terms associated to it.
The first part of the digital photography tutorial will focus on the basic parts and terms you need to know before handling a digital camera. Below are the common terms used in digital photography:
1. Pixel- means the tiniest part of the digital photo. A photograph image is compiled of merged millions of pixel. 2. Resolution- the over all amount of pixels in a photo. Maximizing the resolution would make the image become clearer. Thus more pixels are essential to accomplish a better photo image quality. 3. Mega pixel- a photo compiled of three to four mega pixels will have improved quality that a photo with only one mega pixel. 4. Dots Per Inch (DPI) – this term is used to describe quality of the computer monitor and printer. Specifically, laser printers have more dpi resolution than monitors. Thus, greater the dpi resolution means better quality. 5. JPEG (joint photographic experts group) – it represent to the format for saving pictures in the digital camera. 6. Memory Card- this is where the digital files are stored. Memory cards comprise of different sizes and capacity. A memory card with higher storage capacity would be more convenient to purchase. 7. LCD (liquid crystal display) – virtually all digital cameras have this specification. The purpose of LCD is for the photographer to be able to look at the picture first before capturing the photo.
Now that you already understand the first part of the digital photography tutorial, the second part will talk about essentially on correct handling of digital camera.
Proper handling of digital camera is the next important step in digital photography. This is because the success of a digital photographer counts on his output. And the primary to accomplish excellent photos starts in the way you use and treat the digital camera.
Studying how a digital camera works, understanding the strategies in taking photos, and how to take indoor and outdoor images are all part of the things a beginner should learn.
Below is the second part of the digital photography tutorial. These are good ideas to help beginner control the secrets of taking photos.
- Pay attention to the subjectOne of the most fundamental digital photography tips. You should be able to compose cautiously by working on the frame. Play with your camera, and search the various shots. Avoid positioning your physical object at the middle of the photo, as it may leave to dead middle picture.
- Capture Close Up PhotographsTake essential images by getting them in extreme close up. Close up photos add a little creativity and agitation to the photographs. In addition, this characteristic is only of the different ways to heighten you picture.
- Use a tripod
Oftentimes digital cameras results to blurry photographs if your hands shaking a little. Taking a tripod will surely preserve your attempt from taking low quality pictures, and keep other than great photos.
- Be active
Try imaginative snapshots. Take photographs from the top of a hill, or off the side of a racing yacht. Go outside and explore your environment. You’ll surely have fun taking those once in a lifetime picture snapshots
- Attend a picture taking class
Your learning doesn’t only focus on the graphic part. You essential not only learn through your experience. Learning from an expert would also help to improve your skills as a photographer. Try to attend a photography class in your community, or if there are online classes you cansign up for.
Becoming a professional digital photographer really takes time. You just have to be confident and keep on testing new proficiencies. Start by studying the digital photography tutorial because this will serve as a stepping stone for your potential vocation development.

how to take sharp photos

2009-09-27T02:09:00.000-07:00

Besides an improperly exposed photo, the other most common mistake beginning photographers (and sometimes the pros) make is not getting a photo that is in sharp focus. There are times when you may want to have an intentional blur in your photo – perhaps to show motion. But most of the time, the sharper your photo the better. The automatic exposure feature of your digital camera is often good enough to for a sharp photo. There are times, however, when you will want to take control of your camera’s settings to get an even better picture. Here are some tips to help you consistently take sharper photos.
1. Choose the right shutter speed – Shutter speed means how long the shutter of your digital camera stays open. It’s expressed as a fraction of a second, such as 1/30th or 160th or 1/400th. The slower the shutter speed, the longer the shutter is open, and the more likely your are to get a blurred picture. If your digital camera is in automatic mode, make sure the shutter speed the camera is showing is at least 1/125th. It’s very hard to do get a sharp photo at a slower speed. For moving objects, you’ll need a setting of at least 1/400th to stop the motion. If the auto mode is not showing a fast enough shutter speed, switch the camera to the shutter priority setting and set the shutter speed manually.
2. Choose the right aperture setting – The aperture setting is how wide the shutter opens when you take a short with your digital camera. It is a trade-off. If you increase the shutter speed to prevent blurring, the shutter must open wider to let in enough light because of the reduced time it is open. If the opening is larger for a faster shutter speed, the you may loose some depth of field, which is whether objects close to your and further away from you are in focus at the same time. To maximize depth of field, shoot with the slowest shutter speed that is appropriate to the situation. If you’re shooting an object that’s not moving, set a small aperture. But if you’re shooting a moving object, you may have to use a higher shutter speed. You may loose some depth of field, but this may not be a problem if the object you’re shooting is what’s really important in your photo and not what’s in the background also.
3. Minimize camera movements – If you know you’ll be in a situation where you’ll have to shoot under low light conditions with a slow shutter speed, use a tripod. You can also use a tripod on a sunny day to minimize camera moment to allow you to shoot with a small aperture and a slower shutter speed for greater depth of field. Most professional nature and landscape photos you see were done with a tripod.
4. Follow your object – If you’re shooting a moving object, try planting your feet solidly and bracing your arms tightly against your sides, and follow the moving object by turning your body. This can keep your subject in focus, although your background will be blurred.

Action Photography

2009-09-12T07:24:00.000-07:00

Conveying MotionOnce you have selected a subject you must decide how you wish to convey the motion to your viewer.The two main ways of conveying motion are:
Freezing Obvious MotionFreezing motion is most effective when you capture a moment that is obvious motion. For example, a person captured in mid-jump with their feet off the ground or a surfer frozen in the middle of a breaking wave. When the event is obviously something that does not happen without motion, freezing the motion is a great way to show a fleeting moment in time we might not otherwise get a good look at.
Blurring MotionBlurring motion helps to remind a viewer that motion is taking place. Blurring motion works well with less dramatic action such as flowing water.Freezing motion and blurring motion can also be combined in a single image under controlled conditions. Things like a baseball player striking a baseball are good candidates for this type of blending. When one subject is moving at a dramatically different speed than another subject, it is possible to freeze one while allowing the other to blur shutter speed is the main tool photographers have for controlling motion capture and blur. Shutter speeds needed to freeze action differ greatly based on the subject and the subject's relation to the camera. For example, to freeze splashing water you may need a shutter speed of 1/1000 of a second or faster while to capture a dog running towards you a shutter speed of 1/250 of a second may be all that is required.Subject PlacementOnce you have decided whether you will freeze the action, blur the action, or blend the two styles you must determine the subject placement in your image. While compositional tools such as leading lines the Rule of third, andCentering still apply to action photography - the main consideration in action photography is not stopping the motion with the frame. If you have an image of a runner and the runner is literally running into the frame of your image, the visual impact is to box in the runner and stop the motion. Your goal in action photography will be to place the subject so that the motion is given room to continue. Make sure the action is far enough away from the edge of the frame that it has room to create a visual sense of continuation. Now, there are exceptions to this rule. If the motion is a short burst motion, like the karate image included with this article, you can place the action focal point where it is near the frame so that the eye stops its motion there. By using this technique you can focus extra attention on the action focal point. Again, this only works well with short burst actions that have a logical point of focus. For the karate image example, the breaking the board is the action focal point, we don't care where the hand goes after that moment.TimingWith action photography there is very often only one tiny sliver of time in which to capture "the moment" we are wish to record. Although many cameras now have a burst feature (where the camera can take multiple images within a second if the shutter button is held down), this feature is not always a good choice with action photography. Burst images are taken at a steady rate and lull a photographer into a false sense of security. It leads to a habit of pressing the button earlier than you expect the "good" action, and hoping the camera will get the right shot. This type of shooting only works with continual action. For example, a duck might shake a captured fish repeatedly for several seconds. In that type of situation, burst mode will give you several different points in the action for you to select keeper shots from. However, in short action events (such as motorcross jumps), burst mode is your worst enemy. These action events happen in short bursts that do not allow the camera to "find" a good shot. In these types of action you must learn to anticipate the action and press the shutter just as it begins to happen. Once the action shows up in your viewfinder, its already gone and can not be captured.

Freelance Photography

2009-09-12T07:14:00.000-07:00

Individuals who have a talent and passion for Photography may find that a career in freelance photography affords them the opportunity to get paid for what they already love to do. Freelance photography is a relatively inexpensive business to get up and running. This article highlights some basic guidelines when considering undertaking this full-time or part-time Successful freelance photographers are usually creative individuals who also possess good business sense. Creativity is involved in the ability to capture unique moments, poses, expressions, and candid compositions through the eye of a camera. Technological knowledge of film developing techniques isn’t as necessary in this era for freelancers as it once was because of the advances and commercial availability of these services. An understanding of digital photography and design is a definite advantage as more markets and customers store and transfer photos online and via email. An aptitude for business is necessary because freelancers are responsible for managing incoming and outgoing monies, advertising services, and meeting deadlines independently. Organizational skills are needed.
Opportunities for niche freelance photography work are endless. Special events such as weddings and senior portraits are services that are always in demand but there is often competition to contend with. Individuals who work well with children may find success in this area of photography. Many parents are willing to pay top dollar for candid photos and portraits. Fantasy photography is a niche area that involves dressing children in vintage costumes, fairy tale costumes, and providing props for truly unique portraits. Magazines, newspapers, contests, and online venues offer additional paying opportunities for freelancers.
The creation of a portfolio is one of the best ways to acquire work. A photo album of a photographer’s best photos are assembled in this album and continuously added to. A portfolio highlights a freelancer’s skill and abilities. An album with pockets and a place to hold business cards is ideal. Literature about special promotions and credentials and business cards are contained in one easy, portable location.
Freelance photographers who plan on offering photography services to the public will need to secure advertising to let people in the area know about their availability. There is a lot of free advertising available. Word of mouth advertising is key in getting the word out. Family members and friends can be enlisted to tell others about your newly created services. Photographers who are catering to a children’s market may consider placing flyers in places that parents are likely to visit. Gymnastics studios, beauty salons, karate studios, and pre-schools are examples. This is an inexpensive advertising option but it does take legwork to get the flyers circulated. Freelancers who are catering to brides and grooms may consider attending bridal fairs and networking with other wedding professionals in the area to exchange advertising materials. Creativity is a useful tool to possess in the arena of advertising as well as photography. Paid advertising space is expensive and outlets that offer free advertising may be the best choice when starting out.

10 Photography Tips for out door photography

2009-09-12T07:02:00.000-07:00

Here are some simple solutions that everyone can benefit from when capturing your next outdoor portrait session.
Select a location Locations are very important and should be thought out in advance. Look for locations that bring interest and enhance your session. Parks, lakes and other open spaces offer natural scenery and tend to be the first places people think of. But don’t forget about architecture. Buildings and other structures bring warm elements into a portrait. Doors, windows, walls, a staircase or pillars will bring wonderful life to a portrait.
Choose a location that is not busy and bustling with activity. A quiet area will allow a client to be more focused, and allow them to be able to listen to your posing instructions without distractions or loud noises that would otherwise interfere.
Repeating linesA great way to add depth is to find a location with repeating lines. Columns, pillars or other structures add interest to a portrait and create a portrait that stands apart from others.
Use a longer lensBy selecting a longer lens, you can put the focus on your subject, leaving your background soft and out of focus. This adds to the drama of the portrait, and can give you a unique look and style. One of my favorite lens to use is a 70-200mm F2.8. Use your longer focal length (150mm – 200mm) to separate your subject from the background.
Clothing selectionTo ensure optimal results, consult with your client about clothing selections prior to your portrait. Stay away from busy patterns (ie plaids, polka dots or flowery prints) and use darker to medium tones.
If you have more than one person in the portrait, teach your clients about matching. If one is in jeans, they all should be. Black turtlenecks always work well. Long sleeves work better than short sleeves or tank tops. Put the emphasis on the face, and you will really increase your sales.
Pose by exampleShow your subject how you want them to pose, what to lean on or how to sit. I always find that it’s easier to pose by example, so each person can see the pose you’re looking for. It saves a lot of time and frustration on both parts, and makes the whole experience more enjoyable. It’s easier to make minor moves when they are 90 percent there.
Groups -start with the smallest and growOnce you have a setting selected, start with the smallest groups and build up. When one person is posed and comfortable, its much easier bringing in the second to them. Try and build in triangle formation within your groups (two people on the ground as a base and one behind and between)
Use a tripodA tripod gives you stability and the ability to move quickly. Your camera will remain focused on a particular area while you move the subjects in and out in different group formations. A tripod will also ensure a crisp image, no matter what size lens you are using.
Ensure that the eyes are in focusWhen the eyes are in focus, you have a guaranteed seller. The client will not be happy if the eyes are not sharp.
Perfect time of dayWith a wedding or event, you have no control over the timing. Not so with a portrait. Always work around the sweet light – early morning or late evening. By having the sun in the lower hemisphere of the sky, you can work in a variety of situations without dramatic shadows, squinting eyes, and harsh lines.
Use a reflectorI have never been a fan of adding flash outside during a portrait session. With beautiful, natural light, why bring in “fake” light? A reflector can be an invaluable tool for a portrait session. You can easily direct light right where you want it – the face and eyes.
SoftboxesWhile reflectors are great if you have directional light you can bounce into place, sometimes you are working with much softer light, and a reflector won’t work. Try a softbox. A softbox separates harsh sunlight spots from beautiful natural, light. Softboxes can easily be made with pvc pipe for a frame and stretch white material, rip-stop nylon or a cotton bed sheet, to fill the frame. I use elastic corners to keep mine snug on the frame. You can make a variety of sizes to easily tuck in your bags for travel.
Capture in RAWUnlike the larger exposure range that film has, digital cameras have a smaller exposure range. Shooting in jpg mode where the camera processes each image into a final processed image limits the ability to adjust in post processing. If your exposure is incorrect, the image will be underexposed (loss of detail in the shadows) or overexposed (loss of detail in the highlights) and could be a complete loss. Another issue associated with jpg format is loss of information every time the file is saved causing a degradation of image quality. RAW is an unprocessed format, which allows adjustments to color, contrast and exposure. Once adjusted, the RAW format can be processed into a final jpg image without image quality loss

2009-09-12T07:01:00.000-07:00

What is the Best Aperture to Use?
. The problem is though that lenses tend to have adjustable apertures for a reason. Not every situation calls for the same settings. The lens itself is but one factor.
After ascertaining what a questioner asking about aperture really means, it turns out most aren't considering anything beyond the lens itself — not what it will be used for. There are a number of publications and websites that publish lens reviews and detailed specifications and clearly some lenses are better than others. In order to get the best lens for their money, it makes good sense to pay attention to such information, but sometimes people can get lost in the statistics.
Most lenses are sharpest at mid-aperture, say, around f/8. When set to either wide open or completely stopped down, they'll naturally be somewhat softer since both ends of the aperture scale push the design parameters the lens was built on. Exactly which aperture is sharpest depends on the design too, and it is this that many people tend to pay attention to.
But the whole reason for having a lens is to take pictures, and if they are of any significance, pictures are of something — they have a subject. Especially when shooting outdoors where not everything about the environment can be controlled, not all subjects under all conditions yield optimal results with the same aperture. Sharp useless pictures are rarely the true goal. What most photographers are after is the best pictures they can manage of the subjects they are trying to shoot.
Sometimes circumstances call for a short shutter speed to get the shot at all. When the wind is blowing for instance it can be maddeningly difficult to get a sharp shot at whatever aperture the lens is truly at its best. Digital cameras make adjusting the ISO easy, but there are limits. It is often necessary to sacrifice depth of field by choosing a wide aperture and focus just on the most important elements in a scene. Shooting at the limits of twilight can also benefit from a reasonably wide aperture to avoid excessively long shutter speeds. To get useful images, these sorts of considerations tend to factor into the choice of aperture more than do published specifications and test results.
Sometimes people think a lens is sharpest when it is stopped all the way down since this will produce greater depth of field than a lens would with a more open aperture setting. Landscape photographers learn this early but sometimes resort to simply stopping the lens down as far as it will go before considering if they really need to. At some point,diffraction will start to work counter to what they are trying to achieve and actually create softer results than they would get by backing off even one stop. The closer you can get to a more moderate aperture and still get the depth of field needed for the subject the better off you will be. A bit of checking with the depth of field preview can be time well spent if sharpness is truly important. If you don't need to stop all the way down, don't.
A good lens is still very important of course. A lens that is razor sharp at f/8 is probably still almost as sharp at most moderate apertures. It will probably also do better at extremely large or small apertures than would a lens that was already somewhat soft at f/8. As such, it still makes sense to buy the best lens you can justify. Just don't let this quest tempt you into losing sight of why you wanted to buy a lens in the first place. Once you have it, pick your aperture based on your subject, not just your lens. The best aperture for one situation is unlikely to be the best for every other. The old adage of "f/8 and be there" (or any other aperture based on published specification) rarely works in nature photography. Good images require careful thought and consideration of all the variables.

Importance of composition in photography

2009-09-12T06:54:00.000-07:00

Composition: What Do You Want To Say?
To begin with, we need to establish what we mean by composition. When comparing two images of the same subject, both perfectly exposed and in focus, one may still seem "better" than the other simply because of how the elements are positioned within the frame. This is composition.
Photographers of course aren't the only ones that have to deal with composition. As we begin our investigation of photographic composition, it can be instructive to take a moment to look at how those involved in other creative endeavors approach it.
As a visual art, photography is often compared to painting, yet the process of creating each is quite different. Painters start with a blank canvas and must add to it paints chosen from the palette they have selected to express themselves. The painter needs to be responsible for filling the entire canvas or it will remain blank. A photographer, on the other hand, must start with what is there in front of them. Through their choice of lens, aperture, perspective and framing they must isolate and simplify to achieve their composition. Both must make choices to achieve their aims, but one is an additive process while the other is subtractive.
Similarly to painters, musicians must start from silence and add to it the notes of their composition. A truly great symphony though owes as much to the silences between the notes as it does to the notes themselves. Were no silence to remain, the resulting cacophony would likely not be very entertaining. Photographers too need to be responsible both for what they retain in the frame as much as they are for the spaces that they decide to leave empty.
Writers also must work by adding words to a blank page. Poets though have the added challenge of choosing each word extremely carefully. Poetry can connect with a reader in a very profound way. To be truly successful, a poet must strive to transcend the words themselves in order to get their very feelings down on that page. Photography too can have the power to connect deeply with a viewer. The more a photographer is in tune with what they want to express in an image, the more successful they are likely to be at doing so. A good image may accurately depict a significant place or event, or it may express more of how the photographer felt about an otherwise ordinary scene.
It is extremely important that the photographer strive for simplicity in what they create. National Geographic photographer William Albert Allard put it this way: "What's really important is to simplify. The work of most photographers would be improved immensely if they could do one thing: get rid of the extraneous. If you strive for simplicity, you are more likely to reach the viewer." Yet simplicity is not easy. A hastily made photograph often will contain many distracting or otherwise unnecessary elements. To get the best compositions possible, a photographer must first understand the operation of their camera gear inside and out, but that alone is not enough. They must also pay attention to their own feelings and allow those feelings to be expressed in how they approach composition. In the book More Joy of Photography, Pete Turner, another National Geographic photographer wrote "Ultimately, simplicity is the goal - in every art, and achieving simplicity is one of the hardest things to do. Yet it's easily the most essential."
There is a myth that in order to be good at composition, one must be born with a certain visual sense. Fortunately for the majority of us, this isn't true. By studying the elements of composition, it is possible for anyone to improve their ability and get great images. There is another myth that composition is hard, yet we all know what we like and what we don't. Getting in touch with this sense of what we like is one of the fundamental ways to help us improve our composition without making it hard. Composition should not become simply an academic pursuit devoid of our connection to the image and what we feel about it.
Begin to pay more and more attention to how you feel about the photos you take as well as those you see from others. Photographs are all around us in magazines and books, on billboards and other media. If you like a shot, ask yourself why. Put it into words if you can. This will help you become more in tune with your feelings. If you don't like an image, try to put this into words as well. As you learn more about composition, look for the various elements that make the images you like work. If you do, you'll be more likely to find successful compositions in the field when you are out shooting. Just as a musician who feels the rhythm in their very being is more likely to make better music themselves, a photographer who is in tune with what comprises good composition is more apt to achieve good composition themselves.

close up photos from compact camera

2009-09-09T00:23:00.000-07:00

Much has been written on the topic of Macro photography for those photographers fortunate enough to own a DSLR with macro lenses - but what about if you own a compact point and shoot camera? Can you get great macro shots too?
While the results achievable with a point and shoot camera in macro mode probably won’t compare with a DSLR with a purpose built macro lens I’ve still seen some remarkably good shots with compact cameras (all three shots in this post were taken with compact cameras). Here are a few tips to help you get the most out of yours:
Select Macro Mode - this is a fairly obvious first step but I’m always surprised by how many digital camera owners haven’t explored the shooting modes that their camera has. Macro mode is generally symbolized with a little flower and when selected it will tell your camera that you want to focus on a subject closer to your lens than normal (the minimum distance allowed will vary from camera to camera - consult your instruction manual to find yours). Macro mode will also usually tell your camera to choose a large aperture so that your subject is in focus but the background is not.
Use a Tripod - in macro photography a tripod can be particularly useful, even if you’re just shooting with a compact camera. Keeping your camera still not only improves your shots (getting rid of camera shake) but it allows you to play around with different settings without losing your composition.
Aperture - once in macro mode some cameras will not allow you to make many other adjustments but if you are able to play with your aperture settings it can be well worthwhile to do so. As we’ve covered in our Aperture tutorials, the main thing that aperture impacts is the depth of field of your shots. Choose a small aperture (big number) if you want a large depth of field with everything in focus or a large aperture if you just want your main subject in focus. In macro photography you’ll probably want a shallow depth of field so select the largest aperture available.
Focusing - I find that in macro photography it is helpful to have full control over focusing - especially when you have shallow depth of fields where it is all the more important to make sure the right part of your shot is in focus. If your camera allows manual focusing select this option and manually focus on the part of our subject that is the main point of interest.
Composition - remember some of the basic rules of composition like the Rule of Thirds. Make sure your image has a main point of interest and place that focal point in a smart position in your image in order to draw the eye of your viewer. Try to select a non cluttered or simple background for your main subject so as it doesn’t compete with it visually.
Flash - in many macro shots having some artificial light is important. The challenge with compact cameras is that most give you limited control of your flash. As a result choosing a good time of day when there is plenty of available light is probably your best bet. If you do need more light check to see if your camera allows you to pull back the level that your flash fires at. Alternatively you might like to try diffusing it in some way (tissue paper or cellotape over the flash for example). Another option might be to use some other source of artificial light or to invest in a reflector to help make the most of available light. Experiment with different methods of lighting your subject.
Take Your Shot - once you have your shot lined up and in focus take your shot. Make sure once you’ve taken it to take a good look at it on your LCD, zooming in to make sure that your focusing is sharp. Try shooting at slightly different apertures, with different compositions and focusing on different points of your subject to see what works best.
Macro Lens Attachments - some compact cameras actually have accessories available to help with macro/close up photography. These will enable you to enlarge your subject and/or decrease your minimum focal length. These might be worth investing in if you intend on doing a lot of macro work.
Self Timer - (this point was added as a result of comments below - thanks team!) when using my DSLR for Macro work I tend to use a shutter release cable and tripod to make sure my shots are completely still (to eliminate the small amount of camera shake from pressing the shutter). Most compact cameras don’t have cable releases but a simple way around this is to use your camera’s self timer on it’s shortest time setting which will similarly mean you have no movement of your camera when taking your shot (if you’re taking notice of the ‘use a tripod’ tip above).
PS: I’ve used the term ‘macro photography fairly loosely here. Technically ‘macro photography’ is actually when you produce an image where your subject is captured on your image sensor at life size (or bigger) with a 1:1 ratio.
In the case of most (all?) compact cameras this is not achieved and in fact ‘close up’ photography would be a better description. However as most manufacturers call their close up mode ‘macro mode’ I’ve used the term for the purposes of this article.

potriat photography tips

2009-09-09T00:11:00.000-07:00

Potrait Photography Tips

In portrait photography there are a few guidelines that you should review and think about when you take pictures of people. The three general types of portrait photography are: close-ups or facial shots, upper body shots, or environmental portraits (where you focus on the subject and the surrounding environment that gives the subject character).
Some of the best portraits are where the subjects look completely comfortable like their not looking at a camera. When people try to smile or make a certain kind of face for the camera it usually doesn't seem very genuine. The trick is to capture the image when the subject(s) aren't necessarily focused on the camera. The main purpose of portrait photography is to capture the essence of the subject(s). Different people have different techniques for doing this, one of which is taking a picture while the subject is planning on smiling and then take another couple while they are recovering. Or another way would be to tell a funny joke where they can't help but genuinely laugh and smile. But probably the best way is just to catch them off guard by waiting for the right opportunity and snapping a picture right when they look at you not expecting a camera.
Close-up portraits usually have the subject's shoulders and head or less. They are basically framed around the face. These are the best to capture expressions and glamour shots. It is very important to have the light coming from a good angle for these. If you want to accent wrinkles or small details you should have the light coming from the side or from the top. If you want flattering pictures you should take these on a day that's cloudy so there is a lot of diffused light and therefore no shadows.
You will get the best results if the subject is brighter than the background so there is not much distraction. For these you should use a wide aperture (low f/stop) to make the background out of focus and less of a distraction. Professionals usually use a fixed telephoto lens that's 90 mm or a little higher for portraits for the reason that it de-emphasizes the subjects nose or any other unflattering feature because at that far away the nose or any other significant feature doesn't seem closer to the camera than the rest of the face.
Upper body shots or midrange portraits are a little less personal than close-ups. These are easier to get satisfactory results from mainly because your subject is probably more relaxed plus you can include a little of the background. These are probably the most commonly used for single subjects and multiple subjects. The ideal lens would be around a 90 mm fixed telephoto lens but if there's many subjects in your frame you will need more of a wide-angle lens. These are usually used to mark occasions such as graduation, school yearbook, birthdays etc...
Environmental portraiture are portraits that let us into the life of the subject. These usually include the whole subject in a scenario or partaking in some hobby that they enjoy. These are best for telling a story to the viewer about the subject in the pictures. Photojournalists almost always use these to look into the lives of interesting people. These also work very well in Black and White.

Baby Photography Tips

2009-09-08T23:56:00.000-07:00

Baby Photography Tips

They are the most photographed subject in the world. They are cute, they are cuddly. Babies are a wonderful subject to capture, but require skill and patience taking a good photo.

Flaws to avoid with baby photography
Their huge eyes are even more important than with photographing adults. Try to get those eyes sharp. Avoid red eyes by not using flash at all using lots of natural light when photographing by taking photos outdoors or nearby windows. You can try the red eye reduction function on your camera. If that doesn’t work well or not at all, an imaging tool on your computer is a rescue.
Babies are quite unpredictable in their behaviour and motion blur can spoil the party.Use a high iso speed, and a big aperture to freeze the moments. And take a lot of photos to choose the best and sharpest ones. Just throw the mediocre and bad photos away.
The background should be kept simple. Not cluttered with chairs, commonly very colorful baby toys, or other children running through the view. The surrounding is seldom important for a baby photo. Zoom in or get close. When using a wide angle lenses avoid distortion, unless you want to introduce that on purpose of course. Patterned or heavily colored clothing can distract from the baby’s face and eyes.For the best photos, choose simple, light and solid-colored clothing.
Try to limit the range of colors on the photo.
A special moment is lost before you know it. Have your camera ready.
Remember that the sweet memory for you, and your relatives isn’t always interesting for outsiders. But with using oddities and extremes with photographing babies the photo may be very interesting for an even broader audience. It may even make a winner for a baby photo contest.
Get different
Some possibilities for oddties with baby photography are:
Leaving parts out of the image. Don’t show the whole baby, but for example only her legs, or only his hands. This will evoke the unconscious though: hey, where is the rest? On the other hand it will place all the focus on that part of the body, what viewer might have overlooked.
Not photographing the baby, but the colorful toys that make up the world of the baby.
Show the world not from the perspective of an adult, but of the baby. Never was conscious of perspective on the world.
Photograph the baby assuming a strange pose.
Capture the baby showing an adult facial expression or behaviour. Hey, that’s odd, that doesn’t match what a viewers think of a baby.
Use mirrors. More experimental could be an exploring baby crawling a mirror on the ground. Of course, be careful. Or even more extreme: rotating the resulting image.If you are lucky enough to photograph identical twins you don’t even need the mirror to give the photo an unexpected edge.
Blurred backgrounds work really well with babies. Use a long lens with a big aperture, or blur the background afterwards with an imaging tool. It simplifies the surroundings. With young babies it even suggests the way they see the world.
Baby having fun in peculiar place.
Props. Even ordinary props can become very funny with a baby. Like a baby with big adult shoes, big sunglasses, or a funny shirt. You don’t have to go as far as Anne Geddes to make an interesting picture.
Try photographing from another angle. From above, from behind.
Do the opposite: don’t show the baby as a small creature, but as a giant.
Show motion blur in the background with a sharply captured baby running around. Remember that a sharp face and eyes are important for a striking image. This will not be quite easy, but some luck, or some help from photo editing software will help.
Baby photos to the extreme
Show the The miniature proportions of the baby. The wonderful tiny feet, the tiny fingers.This is emphasized by comparing it to the proportions of the hand of the father or mother.
Heavily dirty because of partly failed food consumption.
Show the formidable softness of the sheets of the baby
Capture the abundant emotions of the baby. Happiness, huge distress. Silly to sad, grouchy to mischievous.
Don’t only get close. Get as close as your lens will allow. Do an extreme close up.

2009-09-08T23:08:00.000-07:00

Digital Cameras - A beginner's guide
Digital Camera Basics - A primer
Digital cameras are confusing to a lot of new users. In this basic guide to digital camera technology we hope to try to give digital beginners at least some basis to use in deciding which digital camera is appropriate for them. When shopping for a digital camera it's at least good to know what the basic terms like white balance, pixel, ppi and dpi mean and how they affect image and print quality. It's also important to know the difference between things like optical zoom and digital zoom as well as the advantages and disadvantages between storage formats such as Compact Flash (CF), Microdrives, Sony Memory Stick, Secure Digital (SD), Multimedia and camera interface technologies such as USB 1.1, USB 2.0 and Firewire IEEE 1394.
Pixels
A pixel is a contraction if the term PIcture ELement. Digital images are made up of small squares, just like a tile mosaic on your kitchen or bathroom wall. Though a digital photograph looks smooth and continuous just like a regular photograph, it's actually composed of millions of tiny squares as shown below.

On the left the full image, on the right the area in the red square magnified to show individual pixels
Each pixel in the image has a numerical value of between 0 and 255 and is made up of three color channels. So for example a pixel could be 37-red, 76-green and 125-blue and it would then look like this . If it was 162-red, 27-green and 12-blue, it would look like this . There are over 16 million possible combinations using this scheme and each one represents a different color. Computer savvy readers will note that each color in this scheme can be represented by an 8-bit number (byte), so the color of each pixel is defined by three color bytes. This scheme can be expanded, for example to use 16-bits (two 8-bit bytes) for each color. Images using three 8-bit values are sometimes called 24-bit color images. Images using three 12-bit values for color definition are called 36-bit color images, and those using three 16-bit values are called 48-bit color images.
Pixel Count
One of the main ways that manufacturers categorize their digital cameras is in terms of pixel count. What this is is the number of individual pixels that go into making each image. Today this number varies between 1 million (1 Megapixel) to around 14 million (14 Megapixels). A million pixels is abbreviated to MP, so a 1MP camera has 1 million pixels and a 3MP camera has 3 million pixels. Currently most popular consumer digital cameras have between 2MP and 5MP. A 3MP camera can make excellent 4"x6" prints and very good 5"x7" prints. If you intend to make lots of 8"x10" prints, then perhaps a 4MP or 5MP camera would be a better choice. Sometimes two numbers are given, total pixels and effective pixels. Total pixels count every pixel on the sensor surface. Usually the very edge pixels aren't used in the final image. Effective pixels are the number of pixels actually used in the image after the edge pixels have been dropped.

3MP
4MP
5MP
Largest Image (typical)
2048 x 1536
2272 x 1712
2592 x 1944
Print size at 320dpi
6.5" x 4.8"
7.1" x 5.4"
8.1" x 6.1"
Print size at 240dpi
8.5" x 6.4"
9.5" x 7.1"
10.8" x 8.1"
Typical maximum image size vs. nominal Pixel Count. See below for comments on dpi and print size
Aspect Ratio
The aspect ratio of a camera is the ratio of the length of the sides of the images. For example, a traditional 35mm film frame is approximately 36mm wide and 24mm HIGH. This has an aspect ratio of 36:24, which can equally well be expressed as 3:2. Some digicams use the same aspect ratio for their digital images. For example most digital SLR (single lens reflex) cameras have a 3:2 aspect ratio. However, video monitors typically use a 4:3 aspect ratio. For example a monitor with a 800x600 display has a 4:3 aspect ratio. With this in mind, most consumer level digicams use a 4:3 aspect ratio for their images.
Sensor Size
The size of the digital sensor element (which is equivalent to the size of the negative for film cameras) is pretty small in all consumer digicams - typically around the size of a fingernail (and a small fingernail at that!). As I said above, a 35mm film frame is 24mm high by 36mm wide but most digital cameras use sensors very much smaller than this. Here are some typical digicam sensor sizes. The "name" of the sensor is based on specification for old TV tubes used in the 1950s. Nobody is quite sure why it's being used for modern digital sensors since the "sizes" don't really relate in any consistent way to the actual physical size of the sensor. However these names are widely used, so it's best to know what they are. They are often listed in digital camera spec sheets.

Relative size of various digital camera sensors
"Name"
Aspect Ratio
Width (mm)
Height (mm)
1/3.6"
4:3
4.0
3.0
1/3.2"
4:3
4.5
3.4
1/3"
4:3
4.8
3.6
1/2.7"
4:3
5.3
4.0
1/2"
4:3
6.4
4.8
1/1.8"
4:3
7.2
5.3
2/3"
4:3
8.8
6.6
1"
4:3
12.8
9.6
4/3"
4:3
18.0
13.5
EOS 10D
3:2
22.0
15.0
Most of the current small 5MP digital cameras use 1/1.8" sensors which are about 7mm x 5mm. They have an area 25x smaller than 35mm film and about 9.5x smaller than a small sensor digital SLR like the Canon EOS 10D. You might wonder why sensor size matters and that's a pretty complex issue. The bottom line is that, for a given pixel count, the larger the sensor (and hence the larger the area of the individual pixels) the better the image quality and the lower the noise level. While large sensor cameras like the EOS 10D can operate at the equivalent of ISO 3200 (though the image does get noisy), many consumer digicams with small sensors cannot operate above ISO 400 before the noise becomes excessive
Another factor in quality here is that small sensors tend to be of a different type than large sensors. Small sensors, and the sensors used on all consumer digital cameras, use a scheme which can read the data from the sensor in real time using a scheme called "interline transfer" and the CCD electronics control exposure rather than a mechanical shutter. Large sensors used on more expensive Digital SLRs are often of a different design known as full frame - which doesn't refer to their size, but their design - and which require the use of a mechanical shutter. They don't read out and the display the data in real time, only after the exposure so they can't give real time LCD displays or record video. The advantage of this scheme is that the whole pixel area can be used to capture light while interline transfer CCDs use part of each pixels to store charge. Since smaller pixel areas generate more noise and interline transfer CCDs are not only smaller to start with but use some of their pixel area for charge storage, their noise level is significantly higher. So the smaller interline transfer sensors in consumer digital cameras yield lower quality images than those used in higher end DSLRs, they can do more "tricks" like recording video clips and giving a live image display on their LCD screen. The lack of a mechanical shutter also makes the cameras cheaper and simplifies construction.
Small sensors mean that short focal length lenses are needed to give the same field of view as cameras using larger sensors or 35mm film. So, for example, a typical consumer digicam may need a 7mm lens to give the same view as you would get using a 35mm focal length lens on a 35mm camera. This has consequences on depth of field and means that most consumer digicams have a vary large depth of field. Great if you want everything in focus, not so great if you want a blurred background.White Balance
With film you can buy "daylight balanced film" for shooting outdoors or "tungsten balanced film" for shooting indoors under normal domestic lighting (not fluorescents!). If you use daylight film under tungsten light the images will be very yellow. If you use tungsten film in daylight the images will be very blue. With film you have to correct for the "color temperature" of the light using filters or by the right choice of film.
With digital you can pick your white balance to suit your light source, so that white looks white, not yellow or blue. Normally there is an automatic setting and the camera decides what white balance setting to use. However if you know what your light source is you can usually set the camera to it and this may give better results. Most digital cameras have settings for sunlight, shade, electronic flash, fluorescent lighting and tungsten lighting. Some have a manual or custom setting where you point the camera at a white card and let the camera figure out what setting to use to make it white.
Sensitivity
Sensitivity settings on digital cameras are the equivalent of ISO ratings on film. Just about every digital camera will have settings with a sensitivity equivalent to ISO 100 film and ISO 200 film. Many will have an ISO 400 setting, but above that the images from cameras with small sensors gets pretty noisy. The more expensive digital SLRs with much larger sensors have much higher sensitivity settings. At ISO 400 they are virtually noise free and some can go as high as ISO 3200 or even ISO 6400! Very few cameras have ISO setting lower than ISO 100 because noise levels are so low at ISO 100 there would be no real advantage in a slower setting. Quite a few digital cameras have an "auto" ISO setting, where the camera will pick from ISO 100, ISO 200 and sometimes ISO 400, depending on the light level and the mode in which the camera is operating.
Digital Zoom and Optical Zoom
Most cameras have both optical zoom and digital zoom. Optical zoom works just like a zoom lens on a film camera. The lens changes focal length and magnification as it is zoomed. Image quality stays high throughout the zoom range. Digital zoom simply crops the image to a smaller size, then enlarges the cropped portion to fill the frame again. Digital zoom results in a significant loss of quality as is clear from the examples below. It's pretty much a last resort, and if you don't have it in camera, you can do a similar job using almost any image editing program.

Comparison of optical zoom and digital zoom
JPEG, TIFF and RAW
The size of the digital file corresponding to the image which the camera produces depends on the pixel count. In most consumer digicams each pixel generates 3 bytes of data (so called "8-bit data"). One for red, one for green and one for blue. This means that a 3MP camera, which has 3 million pixels, generates 9 million bytes of data, or 9MB (megabytes). A few cameras can generate extra data for extra quality, and some of these cameras generate files which correspond to 2 bytes of data for each color ("16-bit"), so a 3MP camera which is capable of generating 16-bit data will produce an 18MB image file.
Now these files are pretty big and they can be compressed quite a lot without a significant drop in quality. This is where JPEG (Joint Photo Experts Group) comes in. JPEG is an algorithm designed to work with continuous tone photographic images) which takes image data and compresses it in a lossy manner (this means you do lose some information). The more you compress, the smaller the file but the more information you lose. However, you can reduce file size by a factor of 10 or so and still get a very high quality image, just about as good as the uncompressed image for most purposes. You can reduce the file size by a factor of 40 - or even more - but the image starts to look really bad!

On the left, 10:1 JPEG compression. On the Right 40:1 compression.Uncompressed the image would look virtually identical to the 10:1 JPEG on the left.
With 10:1 compression the 8-bit files generated by a 3MP camera would be 900Kbytes in size rather than 9Mbytes, which is a big saving with little quality loss. The smaller files take up much less storage space and are much faster to send between computers or from the digital camera or memory card to a computer.
There are also lossless ways of saving files using TIFF (Tagged Image File Format) . These keep all the original information, but at the cost of much bigger files. TIFF files can be compressed in a non-lossy way, but they don't get very much smaller. For example, compare the file sizes for the rabbit image above: TIFF files can also be used to save 16-bit data (those these files are twice the size of 8-bit data files), JPEG files can only save 8-bit data.
Uncompressed TIFF
Compressed TIFF
JPEG at 10:1 compression
JPEG at 40:1 compression
176.1 Kbytes
157.6 Kbytes
17.4 Kbytes
4.5 Kbytes
Some cameras offer a third option, that of saving the actual data generated by the sensor in a proprietary format. Canon calls their version of this "RAW", Nikon call it "NEF". These files are compressed, but in a non-lossy manner. They are significantly smaller than equivalent TIFF files, but larger than JPEGs. Typically they achieve a compression of around 6:1 using 16-bit data, so files are 1/6 the size of equivalent TIFF files. The only disadvantage of these formats is that the image must be converted to either JPEG or TIFF for most software to be able to display them. The conversion is quite a complex process and can be time consuming if you have a lot of images to convert and a PC that's not very fast. Since the RAW and NEF formats contain more information than JPEGs (and in fact often more than TIFF files) you can do some degree of exposure compensation during conversion to JPEG to rescue otherwise improperly exposed images. You can also make white balance corrections during conversion, so if you shot with the wrong white balance, you can fix your error.
Display, Printing, DPI and PPI
There's lots of confusion here so I'll try to go slowly!
When you display a digital image on a monitor, the only thing that determines the size of the image is the pixel count and aspect ratio. DPI and PPI (and I'll explain them later) mean absolutely nothing. If your image is a 480Kbyte file which is 800 pixels wide by 600 pixels wide, it will display as a full screen image if you are using an 800x600 display. It doesn't matter if your DPI is set to 1 or 1000 or if your PPI is set to 1 or 1000. This is 100% true as far as web display goes and as far as any monitor display goes - unless some software intervenes. For example the IE6 browser will take large images and resize them so they fit on the screen. However DPI and PPI are still ignored. A few advanced page layout programs and advanced image editors may be capable of taking DPI and PPI into account when displaying images.
So I'll say this once again. The way you control how large an image appears on someone's monitor screen when viewing your images on the web is by changing the pixel count. If your original image is 1600x1200 pixels it will probably be too large to see all at once on 95% of the video monitors out there. It will also be slow to load since it will be a large file. If you want someone using an 800x600 display to be able to see your image clearly, you need to change the size to, say, 600x400 pixels (remember the browser window is smaller than the full monitor display). You change image size in software. All image editing programs can do this. Sometimes it's called "downsampling" or "downsizing". See your image processing software manual for details on what options your software offers.
PPI stands for "Pixels per inch" and is almost exclusively used for printing, not video display. If you take an image that is 800 pixels wide and 600 pixels high, and you print it with a PPI setting of 100 pixels per inch, the print will be 8 inches wide by 6 inches high. If you print at 200 PPI you get a print 4" wide by 3" high. Now the print at 200 PPI will be higher in quality but smaller. Most people seem to agree that around 320 PPI is the highest number you really need. Above that it's very hard to see any improvement in image quality. 240 PPI is often used and even that is often regarded as high quality. Most people notice a quality drop when they go below 180 PPI.
DPI stands for "dots per inch" and is a property of a printer, not a digital image. It's a measure of how finely spaced the droplets of ink can be in a print. However the number is a bit misleading since it's not always measured in the way you think it might be! Printer settings of 360dpi, 720dpi, 1440dpi and 2880dpi are often found. However the difference between then is subtle at best. Most people probably couldn't tell the difference and 360dpi usually looks great. Changing DPI does not change the size of the print. PPI controls that. DPI controls print quality (though as I said, over 360dpi you don't see much change).
Memory
There are quite a few different (and incompatible) memory cards used in digital cameras.
Compact Flash (CF) - The original memory card. 42mm x 36mm x 3mm. Somewhat larger than the others, but used on all high end DSLRs. Available in capacities up to 2GB. There are also miniature hard drives (Microdrives) with almost the same form factor as CF cards (CF type II, 5mm thick)) which are available in capacities from 340MB to 4GB. Microdrives used to be cheaper than solid state CF cards, though there is not a big difference today up to about 1GB. The 4GB Microdrives are actually cheaper than the 2GB CF cards though. Of course prices change pretty fast these days! Overall CF cards tend to be cheaper than any of the other forms of solid state memory - though this too could change. CF cards and microdrives contain their own disk controller, so that makes the camera electronics simpler.
Secure Digital (SD) - Very small - about 24mm x 32mm and 2mm thick. They have a built in write protect switch to prevent accidental erasure and certain encryption capabilities of little interest to digital camera owners.
Multimedia - Same size as SD but with less features and no encryption capability. There are some that can be used in some SD cameras but they aren't 100% compatible with SD cards in all applications.
Smart Media - Thinner than CF cards, but lacking an on-card memory controller. Despite the name, they're pretty dumb!
Memory Stick - Introduced by Sony and used only by Sony(?)
XD - Developed and used by Fuji, Olympus and Toshiba - even smaller than SD. 20mm x 25mm by 1.7mm thick
Is there any real difference in performance? No, not really. The CF cards are the cheapest per megabyte and are available in higher capacity models than the other (of course that may change with time). Most high end DSLRs use them. The smaller cards tend to be used in the smaller consumer digicams. There's really no reason to pick a camera with one type over another unless you have multiple cameras or other devices (MP3 players for example) which also use memory cards - then it's convenient if they can share cards. It may also be difficult (and/or expensive) to find really high capacity cards (1GB and up) in formats other than CF, but that's probably not a concern for most digicam users.
The following table gives the approximate number of shots you can expect to get using low JPEG compression using various pixel count cameras in conjunction with various sized memory cards at the lowest ISO speed settings of a typical camera. The exact numbers depend on how much compression the camera applies and the ISO speed used. Higher ISO settings result in more noise and noise is hard to compress and so leads to larger files and less images per card. If you're shooting in a RAW or NEF format you can divide these numbers by 3. If you're shooting TIFF files you'd have to divide these numbers by 8.

3MP
4MP
5MP
6MP
128MB Memory
116
87
70
58
256MB Memory
232
174
140
116
512MB Memory
464
348
280
232
Approximate number of shots per memory card for various digital camera pixel counts using high quality JPEGs for storage
Digital Camera Interface
Once you've got the images stored in your camera on the memory card you need a way to get them into your computer! There are several ways to connect digital cameras to a PC as well as external card readers.
Serial - The earliest digital cameras had a serial interface, but no current cameras use this since it is so slow
USB 1.1 - USB was the first widespread high speed method of data transfer from cameras. It is theoretically capable of transfer speeds up to 11 megabits/second (note megabits not megabytes)
USB 2.0 - A development of USB but much faster - up to 480 megabits/second. USB devices are compatible with USB1.1 ports on a PC, but will only work with them at the lower data rate.
IEEE 1394 (Firewire) - Though this is an older interface than USB, it was originally only really used much on Apple computers. It's capable of high speed transfer (400 megabits/second) and it's now found on some PCs or it can be added to them via a plug-in card. More common on digital video cameras than still digital cameras.
Just about all cameras can connect to a PC, but it's sometimes easier to remove the memory card from the camera and insert it into a dedicated card reader. Even if your camera only has USB 1.1. if your computer has a USB 2.0 you can use a USB 2.0 card reader for faster transfer. Card readers are cheap, anywhere from $15 to $40.
Buying a Digital Camera
Sad to say there are more dishonest discount camera stores than you'll find in almost any other business. Some of the popular photography magazines are cram full of ads advertising very low prices. What they don't tell you is that you won't ever actually get the camera for that price. Either they will add on $75 in shipping charges or they will be "out of stock" on that model, but they will have a more expensive model available of course. Sometimes they'll tell you that the advertised camera is plastic in made in Taiwan, but for another $50 you can get the model made in Japan. Sometimes they'll ship you the wrong item in the hope that it will be too much trouble to send it back. Shop in the ads at the back of magazines based only on the lowest price you see and most of the time you'll be sorry.
However, there are reputable discount dealers and photo.net is associated with a few of them. These dealers do give photo.net a small commission on sales made through their website via the links below, so please use them if theu have what you want at a good price. They're honest, they stock what they advertise, they have low shipping charges, good prices and responsive customer service. If they didn't we wouldn't be associated with them and we wouldn't recommend shopping with them.

sell your photos

2009-09-08T22:45:00.000-07:00

A guide to getting started in selling your own images....

THE RIGHT SUBJECTFirst important point - is your work what people what? Most image users (stock images) will not be interested in pictures of your pets or friend bob on the beach last summer - no matter how good they are! The images that sell depict concepts, generic objects or succinctly capture the essence of ideas, emotions or travel destinations. Images of the view from your balcony or an abstract shot of your bathroom tiles might very well make an attractive desktop image but they are less likely to persuade a designer to part with their money!
IMAGE QUALITYQuality is vital, noisy grainy photos from low-end digital cameras will have limited use. If you want to sell the largest market (both web and print) then you will need good quality, well-lit, sharp, high-resolution images. See the section below on where to sell images, if you upload your images, these sites will soon reject photographs that are not up to scratch - take their free advice and act on it, don't get discouraged.
SELL YOURSELF WITH A PORTFOLIOA portfolio is a collection of some of your best work, many people these days have their portfolio online. You could create your own website or pay and upload images to one of several companies who specialise in hosting photographers' portfolios (some also sell the images for you). Your portfolio should include a personal and creative statement along with detailing how your images can be bought, the equipment you use, and what you specialise in shooting (your favourite subjects). The selection of images your choose should be specially picked to display not just aesthetics but also technical merits.

"A Good Camera does a Good Photographer Make"

WHAT PRICE?Aim your images at the right level; no matter how professional you are if you don't have a large portfolio of very high quality, unique images then the large agencies are not going to be interested in your photographs. Be realistic about the price you are aiming at, most everyone has a digital camera these days and if it only took you 10 seconds to snap an image of a computer mouse and keyboard then why would someone pay a fortune for such an image instead of snapping one themselves? However, take the same mouse with a ribbon on top and some wrapping-paper in the background and instantly you have an illustration of online gift shopping or a new computer for Christmas, a little more time to set up, but also a little more likely to sell!
WHERE TO SELL?You could try selling the images yourself, you will need a website, e-commerce/business experience, perhaps cd's of the images to ship out, it's the way to maximise your profits once you know the industry but it's also a full time job! That's why most photographers sell their images through agencies. These days most images are sold online and downloaded instantly, there is a whole range of images available; generally speaking the more expensive images are higher resolution, specialist subjects and very high quality. The Internet has radically changed the stock photo market, now anyone with a good product can sell their work; the sites listed below are known as 'microstock' sites, they allow anyone from the hobbyist to the professional photographer to sell images easily. These sites take images from individual contributors and sell them on to designers around the world who are attracted by the low cost of the images. In return the photographer takes a commission for each image sold.
List of popular microstock sites:
Dreamstime

Shutterstock.com

Fontilia

Gettyimage

The sites listed above are not suitable for all types of image and some seem to specialise in certain styles of photo, I have images hosted on these sites, but I don't put all my work all on there. They charge no fees for hosting images - they just take a cut (some times a large one!) of each sale. They are a great way to get exposure of your work, and to find out what sells and what doesn't, the users of the sites can also make comments on good and bad points of your photos. It's not going to let you retire over night, indeed it's hard work uploading and key-wording your work, but it is a great way into the market for the amateur professional or to make a little pocket money with your favourite hobby. Microstockinsider.com has a lot more indepth info about .
LANDSCAPE AND FINE ART PHOTOSThis is a different market to stock photos, instead of selling to designers you are likely to sell direct to consumers who will probably want framed prints. I've seen people selling their images on markets, village fairs, car-boot sales, online or in shops/galleries. Search around for a local company who can print your images (giclee prints, on canvas perhaps) then approach some local shops, local photos are often of interest to people, specially if you have some images in your collection taken many years ago. As an alternative there are also companies online that specialise in selling prints of your photos (quality art prints, not to be confused with printed mugs and calendars type companies). This market focuses in aesthetics so the usable ideas and metaphors stock photos guidelines go out the window, in this case the pretty flowers in the front yard might just be back on the shooting agenda.
TAKE ON COMISSIONSIt's not just wedding photos and images for the local newspaper, if you have the design, sales and photography talent then try offering the whole package. It's difficult to get into but it can be quite lucrative if you can build a up network, especially if you focus on specialised or technical subjects like medical, industrial or product photos. For example if you already work in construction then you will probably already be aware of safety procedures, equipment and have contacts inside the industry, now you need to look at what services you need to provide as a photographer or create some new ideas for potential clients.

career in photography

2009-09-08T22:30:00.000-07:00

Photographers can expect competition for job openings. The interest in a photography career is so high that there are more professional photographers interested in positions as commercial and news photographers than the number of photography jobs available. Photography professionals who succeed in landing a salaried job or attracting enough work to earn a living by freelancing are likely to be very creative, able to easily adapt to rapidly changing technology, and adept at operating their own business. Related work experience, job-related training, or some unique talent or skill — such as a background in electronics or computers — is also beneficial to prospective photographers. The employment opportunities for photographers is expected to increase about as fast as the average for all occupations through 2010. The demand for portrait photographers should increase as the population grows. Also, as the number of electronic versions of journals, magazines, and newspapers grows on the Internet, photographers will be needed to provide digital images for placement online.
Employment growth of photographers will be constrained somewhat by the widespread use of digital photography. Though it increases photographers’ Photography entails much more than merely taking photographs. The work of photographers contains two basic elements namely the taking of pictures and the development of photographs until the desired quality is obtained. Photographers are categorised according to the subject or type of illustrative work undertaken, although a precise clear-cut division seldom occurs. Successful photographers must be versatile and cannot afford to limit themselves to one particular area only.Studio photographers take pictures of a general nature, but can also specialize in a specific direction. General photography entails taking photographs of people of all ages for specific purposes such as passports, identity documents, graduation ceremonies, portrait studies, weddings, engagements and other important events. Advertising photography is mainly suitable for more experienced and creative photographers. Advertising photographers are almost always disciplined to a drawn layout, but their work must also be original. Fashion photographers must know how to create lively, original and interesting images while showing garment detail. A flair for clothes and a good working relationship with the models are essential. News pictures are highly topical. It places great demands on press photographers to meet deadlines, produce usable images under tough conditions and have the tact and tenacity to get co-operation from others. Photo journalism requires a good eye, rapid reaction and a thorough knowledge of all equipment and materials. This, together with the ability to write, can be enormously rewarding. The special application of photography known as police photography, crime scene photography and quite a few others is correctly referred to as "forensic" photography. Forensic photographers utilize photography to help solve crimes. Research institutes and hospitals require photography to record operations and experiments. Medical and scientific photography requires a scientific or medical background and knowledge of photographic theory. Photographers in this field have to be able to use very specialised cameras and a variety of electronic flash equipment. The work is usually done under laboratory conditions and creative opportunity will be of a technical nature. Other fields of photography include public relations, commercial and industrial photography, photographic marketing and aerial photography to name but a few.
Requirements
What kind of personality do I need? Prospective photographers must have organizational and business skills in order to be successful. They must be able to initiate and maintain productivity, improvements in digital technology will allow individual consumers and businesses to produce, store, and access digital photographs on their own. Declines in the newspaper industry will reduce demand for photographers to provide still images for print. However, there will always be employment opportunities for photographers who are interested in taking photos in portrait studios for those interested in professional photography or out in the field for special occasions and events.
Career opportunities include:
* Photographer* Photographic Lab TechnicianPhotography entails much more than merely taking photographs. The work of photographers contains two basic elements namely the taking of pictures and the development of photographs until the desired quality is obtained. Photographers are categorised according to the subject or type of illustrative work undertaken, although a precise clear-cut division seldom occurs. Successful photographers must be versatile and cannot afford to limit themselves to one particular area only.Studio photographers take pictures of a general nature, but can also specialize in a specific direction. General photography entails taking photographs of people of all ages for specific purposes such as passports, identity documents, graduation ceremonies, portrait studies, weddings, engagements and other important events. Advertising photography is mainly suitable for more experienced and creative photographers. Advertising photographers are almost always disciplined to a drawn layout, but their work must also be original. Fashion photographers must know how to create lively, original and interesting images while showing garment detail. A flair for clothes and a good working relationship with the models are essential. News pictures are highly topical. It places great demands on press photographers to meet deadlines, produce usable images under tough conditions and have the tact and tenacity to get co-operation from others. Photo journalism requires a good eye, rapid reaction and a thorough knowledge of all equipment and materials. This, together with the ability to write, can be enormously rewarding. The special application of photography known as police photography, crime scene photography and quite a few others is correctly referred to as "forensic" photography. Forensic photographers utilize photography to help solve crimes. Research institutes and hospitals require photography to record operations and experiments. Medical and scientific photography requires a scientific or medical background and knowledge of photographic theory. Photographers in this field have to be able to use very specialised cameras and a variety of electronic flash equipment. The work is usually done under laboratory conditions and creative opportunity will be of a technical nature. Other fields of photography include public relations, commercial and industrial photography, photographic marketing and aerial photography to name but a few.
Requirements
What kind of personality do I need? Prospective photographers must have organizational and business skills in order to be successful. They must be able to initiate and maintain * Digital Image Specialist* Computer artists* Commercial Photographer* Portrait Photographer* Medical Photographer
If you are interested in becoming a professional photographer, it may be helpful to talk to other professional photographers and learn about their career backgrounds. They have already established themselves in the photography industry and taken the steps necessary to succeed in this competitive business, so they are likely to have some additional tips on how to establish your own career.Photography entails much more than merely taking photographs. The work of photographers contains two basic elements namely the taking of pictures and the development of photographs until the desired quality is obtained. Photographers are categorised according to the subject or type of illustrative work undertaken, although a precise clear-cut division seldom occurs. Successful photographers must be versatile and cannot afford to limit themselves to one particular area only.Studio photographers take pictures of a general nature, but can also specialize in a specific direction. General photography entails taking photographs of people of all ages for specific purposes such as passports, identity documents, graduation ceremonies, portrait studies, weddings, engagements and other important events. Advertising photography is mainly suitable for more experienced and creative photographers. Advertising photographers are almost always disciplined to a drawn layout, but their work must also be original. Fashion photographers must know how to create lively, original and interesting images while showing garment detail. A flair for clothes and a good working relationship with the models are essential. News pictures are highly topical. It places great demands on press photographers to meet deadlines, produce usable images under tough conditions and have the tact and tenacity to get co-operation from others. Photo journalism requires a good eye, rapid reaction and a thorough knowledge of all equipment and materials. This, together with the ability to write, can be enormously rewarding. The special application of photography known as police photography, crime scene photography and quite a few others is correctly referred to as "forensic" photography. Forensic photographers utilize photography to help solve crimes. Research institutes and hospitals require photography to record operations and experiments. Medical and scientific photography requires a scientific or medical background and knowledge of photographic theory. Photographers in this field have to be able to use very specialised cameras and a variety of electronic flash equipment. The work is usually done under laboratory conditions and creative opportunity will be of a technical nature. Other fields of photography include public relations, commercial and industrial photography, photographic marketing and aerial photography to name but a few.
Requirements
What kind of personality do I need? Prospective photographers must have organizational and business skills in order to be successful. They must be able to initiate and maintain

photo contest

2009-09-08T21:15:00.000-07:00

How to Enter a Photography Contest
Step 1
Search local newspapers, advertisements and online sources to find current photography contests. When searching, take note of deadlines, entry fees, and qualifications. You will also want to read the fine print, because some contests will want full rights to your photos, even if you do not win anything.
Step 2
Once you have found a credible contest, find out the details of the type of photo the contest dictates and get ready to take some photographs. You will want to take pictures when you have the best lighting available (if outdoors, you'll probably want to take photos when the sun is high). It is also a good idea to take multiple shots of the same thing when you are taking pictures to ensure at least one photo turns out the way you want it to. It is also a good idea to take pictures with a digital camara, rather than using a film camera, as you don't have to pay any film processing fees that way.
Step 3
Make sure you have plenty of time to take good photos. The best photos take time to ensure proper lighting, emotion, and composition. If you rush, you may not achieve the look you want.
Step 4
Once you have some pictures you like, and you think have a shot at winning the contest, upload them to your computer to have a closer look at them. Some photos look fine on the digital camera screen, but upon closer inspection, are blurry, grainy, or otherwise not usable.
Step 5
Choose the best picture or pictures for the contest. If necessary, photoshop the image to enhance the color, brightness, or contrast (make sure this is allowed by reading the contest rules). If you are mailing the hard copy of the photograph in, or dropping it off to a physical place, make sure you print a copy of it for yourself. If you are entering online, fill out the necessary paperwork, attach a copy of the photo file, and send it on its way.

History of photography

2009-09-07T10:01:00.000-07:00

Photography" is derived from the Greek words photos ("light") and graphein ("to draw") The word was first used by the scientist Sir John F.W. Herschel in 1839. It is a method of recording images by the action of light, or related radiation, on a sensitive material.
Pinhole CameraAlhazen (Ibn Al-Haytham), a great authority on optics in the Middle Ages who lived around 1000AD, invented the first pinhole camera, (also called the} and was able to explain why the images were upside down. The first casual reference to the optic laws that made pinhole cameras possible, was observed and noted by Aristotle around 330 BC, who questioned why the sun could make a circular image when it shined through a square hole.
The First PhotographOn a summer day in 1827, Joseph Nicephore Niepce made the first with a . Prior to Niepce people just used the camera obscura for viewing or drawing purposes not for making photographs. Joseph Nicephore Niepce's or sun prints as they were called were the prototype for the modern photograph, by letting light draw the picture.
Niepce placed an engraving onto a metal plate coated in bitumen, and then exposed it to light. The shadowy areas of the engraving blocked light, but the whiter areas permitted light to react with the chemicals on the plate. When Niepce placed the metal plate in a solvent, gradually an image, until then invisible, appeared. However, Niepce's photograph required eight hours of light exposure to create and after appearing would soon fade away.
Louis DaguerreFellow Frenchman, was also experimenting to find a way to capture an image, but it would take him another dozen years before Daguerre was able to reduce exposure time to less than 30 minutes and keep the image from disappearing afterwards.

In 1839 after several years of experimentation and Niepce's death, Daguerre developed a more convenient and effective method of photography, naming it after himself - .
Daguerre's process 'fixed' the images onto a sheet of silver-plated copper. He polished the silver and coated it in iodine, creating a surface that was sensitive to light. Then, he put the plate in a camera and exposed it for a few minutes. After the image was painted by light, Daguerre bathed the plate in a solution of silver chloride. This process created a lasting image, one that would not change if exposed to light.
In 1839, Daguerre and Niepce's son sold the rights for the daguerreotype to the French government and published a booklet describing the process. The daguerreotype gained popularity quickly;

Negative to Postive ProcessThe inventor of the first negative from which multiple postive prints were made was Henry Fox Talbot, an English botanist and mathematician and a contemporary of Daguerre.
Talbot sensitized paper to light with a silver salt solution. He then exposed the paper to light. The background became black, and the subject was rendered in gradations of grey. This was a negative image, and from the paper negative, Talbot made contact prints, reversing the light and shadows to create a detailed picture. In 1841, he perfected this paper-negative process.Tintypes, patented in 1856 by Hamilton Smith, were another medium that heralded the birth of photography. A thin sheet of iron was used to provide a base for light-sensitive material, yielding a positive image.
Wet Plate NegativesIn 1851, Frederick Scoff Archer, an English sculptor, invented the wet plate negetive Using a viscous solution of collodion, he coated glass with light-sensitive silver salts. Because it was glass and not paper, this wet plate created a more stable and detailed negative.
Photography advanced considerably when sensitized materials could be coated on plate glass. However, wet plates had to be developed quickly before the emulsion dried. In the field this meant carrying along a portable darkroom.
Dry Plate Negatives & Hand-held CamerasIn 1879, the dry plate was invented, a glass negative plate with a dried gelatin emulsion. Dry plates could be stored for a period of time. Photographers no longer needed portable darkrooms and could now hire technicians to develop their photographs. Dry processes absorbed light quickly so rapidly that the hand-held camera was now possible.
Flexible Roll FilmIn 1889,george eastman invented film with a base that was flexible, unbreakable, and could be rolled. Emulsions coated on a cellelose nitrate film base, such as Eastman's, made the mass-produced box camera a reality.
Color PhotographsIn the early 1940s, commercially viable color films (except Kodachrome, introduced in 1935) were brought to the market. These films used the modern technology of dye-coupled colors in which a chemical process connects the three dye layers together to create an apparent color image.

Photography

2009-09-05T02:37:00.001-07:00

Photography is the process, activity and art of creating still or moving pictures by recording radiation on a sensitive medium, such as a photographic film, or an electronic sensor. Light patterns reflected or emitted from objects activate a sensitive chemical or electronic sensor during a timed exposure, usually through a photographic lens in a device known as a camera that also stores the resulting information chemically or electronically. Photography has many uses for business, science, art and pleasure